New Discoveries in Cosmetics Science and Formulation

In this article, we will share insights on the latest discoveries made in the cosmetics field.

1

Relieving Skin Irritation Caused by Retinol Formulations

2

Coriander Oil Provides Anti-Aging Benefits

3

Sandalwood Oil Protects Against Blue Light

4

2nd Generation of Microbiome Found in Infants Unveiled

1. Relieving Skin Irritation Caused by Retinol Formulations

As much as we love the benefits that Retinol brings to the skin, it is found to cause skin irritation in some users. Some may experience symptoms like itching, stinging, scaling and burning of different intensities depending on the individual. However, the root cause of retinol induced skin irritation has not been identified which makes it difficult for consumers to select the right Retinol cosmetics product for their skin. This new discovery uncovers basic retinol science which will aid in the development of skin-safe retinol products.

Identifying The Cause of Retinol-Induced Irritation In Cosmetics

Retinol-induced irritation is associated with human genes. The research has identified 30 genetic variants of 10 genes that relates to skin irritation caused by Retinol. Based on this information, they developed a concoction of materials that can alleviate retinol-induced molecular pathogenesis. This novel formula consists of glucosamine, sucralfate, trehalose, ectoin, 4-T-butylcyclohexanol and Omega-9 fatty acids is able to mitigate Retinol-induced irritation, decrease skin redness and transepidermal water loss.

An Alternative of Retinol, Bakuchiol Gained Popularity

Bakuchiol, a new ingredient known as a better alternative to Retinol gained popularity. It is a naturally derived anti-aging ingredient with similar benefits but less side effects. Additionally, wounds supplemented with bakuchiol but not retinol displayed an increase in epidermis regeneration.
Click here to read more about Bakuchiol and other active ingredients.

2. Coriander Oil Provides Anti-Aging Benefits

Coriander essential oil is a promising natural source of skin care ingredient due to its anti-aging potentiality and odorous characteristics. It possesses high levels of collagenase, elastase, tyrosinase, and hyaluronidase inhibitory activities. Among other oils (fennel, anise and cumin), coriander oil has the highest anti-wrinkle activity. Results showed that coriander oil inhibits various cell signalling pathways and downregulates the expression of mRNA expression of MMP-1 offering anti-aging benefits. Additionally, it has good anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.

3. Sandalwood Oil Protects Against Blue Light

Sandalwood Oil, a raw material commonly used in fragrances now sees an opportunity in other cosmetics applications such as facial treatments. At concentrations between 1 – 10%, Sandalwood oil is able to protect the skin against the oxidative stress induced by urban dust and blue light exposure.

This in-vitro study assesses the level of oxidised form of Squalene (SQOOH) to evaluate the protective effect of the oil. It is found that 10% Sandalwood Oil is the most effective, followed by 1% Sandalwood Oil and then Vitamin E (alpha-tocopherol). The levels of SQOOH are reduced by 37%, 31% and 28% respectively.

The mechanism of the oil to protect against oxidative stress is associated to another study showing that the oil decreases the generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) within keratinocytes during exposure to environmental stressors. It is believed that it upregulates the cellular anti-oxidant mechanism to scavenge this formation.

4. 2nd Generation of Microbiome Found in Infants Unveiled

This new generation of microbiome differs from those identified in 2019 by more than 10%. The research conducted by Korea-based Cosmax analysed the skin of 1000 Korean babies and children who have high skin firmness and skin barrier density, discovering a new group of microorganisms with characteristics similar to that of materials which form the skin barrier.

The new strain, KERA-3, is the third in about 2000 bacteria found in a culture method that imitates actual skin environment. It is especially effective in lipid synthesis, skin firmness, and skin barrier reinforcement.

Read more on fermented skincare and microbiome

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